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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.